There are left-handed and right-handed versions of the endplate/motherboard assemblies. I will describe only one of them. The cooling tubes are mounted onto fully populated mother boards. They are glued to the board with epoxy which is thermally conducting, electrically insulating and flexible. The location on the motherboard can be as bad as 0.5-1.0 mm, but the location of the protruding pieces must be more precise, since they have to fit through holes on the aluminum endplates.

The mechanical drawings are here. Relevant drawing numbers are 46-57.

1. On motherboard MVD-4, you have to do some surgery. Do a trial fit of the tube. You will see one fuse that interferes. Remove the fuse using solder wicking, and attach 2 leads to it. One of the old contact pads on the board will be covered up by the tube. Follow the trace to the other end, and cut the trace right by the other solder point. One of the leads gets soldered to this point, the other to the old pad that is still exposed. Put some kapton tape under the relocated fuse, and do another trial fit of the tube.

2. There is likely some conflict between the tube and some of the nylon nuts in the 'inside turns'. Remove those nuts, we'll put them back after the tube is glued.

Rebuild the bottom support jig. It is the semicircular aluminum plate with the foam support block glued onto it. Each time, replace the block. Glue the foam positioning strips, and place the double-side tape. Do a press-fit with the actual mother board in order to ensure that all parts clear the strips. Trim foam that conflicts with the fuses. Fit the cooling tube in the slot formed by the foam ridges. Check the fit using a populated mother board, and also the thin aluminum endplate. They should fit over the two ends of the tube that are sticking up. Small adjustments are possible. Sand the surface of the tube that will contact the board. This way, any high spots are removed, and the contact surface area is increased. Clean the surface. Rebuild the top foam pressure block. Cut relief for the power connectors, the tube ends and for the transistors that are sticking up. Do a trial fit. Apply the glue to the tube. This is the Melcor epoxy that comes in the small white plastic cups with white and black metal caps and blue tape around it. Mix 2.50g each, this way you'll get 2 batches per pair of cups. Use the electronic scale in the clean tent. The glue has the consistency of dried-out peanut butter, so in the end you'll have to use a finger in order to get a neat ridge of the stuff on the center of the tube. You have just enough, not enough to drop any. Place the tube onto the bottom support jig. Fit the mother board over the alignment pins and the tube ends. Fit the foam pressure block over the alignment pins. Place the clamping block (short piece of 2x6) on the yellow hatched area and tighten the nuts.. Turn the whole thing upside down, so that the board side of the glue joint is down. curing time is 1 hour at 85C. At the end, leave the circulation going, but open the door 3-4". This will gently cool of the oven over about 1 hour. Sew on the reinforcing buttons, and fix them with some glue. Trim nylon nuts thet you removed as necessary, and screw them back on.

bigger version ps version